Ask a dermatologist or esthetician to name their top three anti-aging ingredients and they’ll name vitamin C—guaranteed. Vitamin C is not only one of the most studied and clinically backed skincare ingredients available, but it’s also one of the few ingredients that consistently delivers results on actual users.
Vitamin C has been proven to provide the following anti-aging skin benefits:
Provides antioxidant action to defend skin from free radical damage, the top cause of visible aging
Stimulates the production of collagen, the protein that makes skin firm, taut, smooth and resistant to wrinkles and sagging
Fades or prevents hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and improves skin tone.
Minimizes inflammation, redness and enhances wound healing.
A vitamin C serum is a must-have in your skincare regime but the trick to using this powerhouse ingredient effectively is choosing the best version and the one most appropriate for sensitive skin. Vit C comes in many forms, l-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to name a few. But there are three main issues with most of them that seriously compromises their anti-oxidant and anti-aging power.
The 3 Problems With Most Forms of Vitamin C
- They cause sensitivity. The number one problem with many forms of vitamin C, particularly l-ascorbic acid, is their acidic nature. With continued use the ph of 3.5 or less can trigger inflammation on the skin’s surface resulting in a burning sensation, redness, and dryness If you have sensitive or easily reactive skin, this poses a major issue.
- They don’t reach the dermis. Most types of vitamin C are water-soluble. Our lipid-rich skin barrier is more receptive to oil-soluble substances. Because of this, water-soluble vitamin C can’t pass through the skin barrier—and ends up sitting on the top layer of skin instead of penetrating into deeper layers.
- They lose their effectiveness inside the jar. Vit C is a fragile and unstable ingredient. When exposed to oxygen, heat, and light it will oxidize turning an orange or brown color. If you’re using a product that is routinely exposed to the environment, the Vit C will degrade and lose its effectiveness over time.
The Perfect Vitamin C for Sensitive Skin
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (TA), an oil soluble derivative of vitamin C gives you all skin brightening benefits of vitamin C with none of the negative side effects. Here’s why tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is our vitamin C hero:
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate does not trigger sensitivity
TA is a gentler version of vitamin C, which means it does not cause irritation, redness, dryness, stinging or burning. But don’t confuse gentle with weak—it’s as powerful as it can get.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates all the way into the dermis (where vitamin C needs to reach to transform skin)
TA is oil-soluble, which means it not only penetrates the epidermis (the uppermost layer of your skin), but also goes farther into the dermis, the deeper layer—which is where it needs to be to stimulate collagen production. TA is known for its higher rate of vitamin C within the dermis. In one study published in Dermatologic Surgery, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate was found to "[penetrate] directly into the epidermis and dermis, acting both as an antioxidant and a direct stimulant of new collagen, unlike other ascorbic acids, which are released into the stratum corneum and protect the skin only as an antioxidant.”
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is stable
Stability is everything when it comes to vitamin C. TA is stable in both water and air, lasting as long as 18 months inside the bottle—and all day on your skin to deliver non-stop antioxidant action.
To sum up, here’s what dermatologist Hema Sundaram, MD, FAAD, wrote on ModernMedicine.com: “Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a form of vitamin C that is more potent than ascorbic acid in stimulating collagen production and other antioxidant effects.
“Compared to L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate was shown in studies to provide five times greater penetration into keratinocytes, five times greater collagen production […] twice the protection against UVB radiation and twice the suppression of matrix metalloproteinases.” (Matrix metalloproteinases are enzymes that cause degradation of important structural proteins.)
Get Your Glow On with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
Lily De Mai’s Sanctuary - Vita 3 | Anti-Ox Defense Serum features tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, blended with coenzyme Q10, and a propriety blend of superfruit oils and CO2’s including, pomegranate, red raspberry, and sea buckthorn. Working synergistically to combat the daily damaging effects of UV rays & pollution, boost luminosity, build collagen, diminish fine lines and wrinkles. All this with no irritation or oxidation what could be more perfect!